Learn: An Introduction to Alcohol Inks
- Jaide Bateman
- Mar 21, 2024
- 15 min read
Updated: Feb 18
Introduction to Alcohol Ink:
the basics
Difficulty: beginner - never used alcohol before.
Alcohol inks are a wonderfully diverse medium. They are a highly pigmented and vibrant alcohol-based ink. They work on any non-porous surface and are diluted with alcohol to create lovely transparent effects. Many say it reminds them of watercolor, but the vibrancy of the inks are incomparable. If you were a traditional artist working with acrylic or watercolor, put all of those techniques aside and prepare to think a little...backwards. Learn alcohol ink basics to rewire your creative process.
Alcohol ink is what I like to call a "subtractive medium." With basically any other medium, you are usually layering paint layers on top of each other to create depth. With alcohol ink, you are going to be laying down ink, and using alcohol to REMOVE or DILUTE the ink to create depth. There are many ways to do this, which we will get into in the next chapter.
Here's what this article will cover:
The Shopping List - An extensive list of both required and optional items to start and excel at alcohol ink art.
About the Medium - What exactly IS alcohol ink?
Selecting the Right Alcohol - All about alcohol, the medium we use to extend the inks.
Safety Precautions - This step is crucial to creating a safe, user-friendly product. I will give you a few different options to suit your personal space restrictions, time constraints, and quantity of production.
ALCOHOL INK SHOPPING LIST
Here is a beginning list of materials and their uses to start your projects.
Required Materials:
alcohol ink
isopropyl alcohol
a surface
Krylon Kamar varnish
Please click on any of the materials to read more about each.
ABOUT THE MEDIUM:
Alcohol Ink
Make sure the bottle is specifically ALCOHOL ink.
India ink, acrylic ink, and liquid watercolors are all different types of concentrated water-based pigments, but you want the alcohol based.
Brands
These are my favorite tried and true brands:
Ranger's Tim Holtz Alcohol Ink
There are a few defining characteristics between these major brands.
Piñata inks
have vibrant colors and carry, by far, my favorite metallics because they can break apart and chunk together to create an effect similar to gold leaf. The only exception is Silver and Pearl. They acts the same as the Tim Holtz metallics and integrate into the ink rather than separate from it. Piñata also reacts the best to lower alcohol % so if you are only working with 91% or 97%, I would stick with Piñata.
Tim Holtz (previously known as Ranger)
is known for their vast color palette. They also recently released a pearlescent line that has had mixed reviews. I personally am not a fan of their metallics, but you may find you enjoy them. They have an alloy line coming out in 2020 that has had good reviews. Use them with 99% alcohol for the absolute best results.
Copic Various Ink Markers or Refills
have an absolutely massive color palette. If you are looking at ordering Copics, you can buy either their Copic markers for detail work, or use their Copic refills similar to the ink bottles of other brands.
T-Rex inks
have very vibrant and strong colors. Their black is the truest black I've used. It does have a certain granulation effect that is really interesting to work with. Other brands' blacks tend to display color variations when diluted with alcohol or mixed with other colors.
There have also been quite a few new brands emerging since the rise of alcohol ink popularity such as Brea Reese, Spectrum, Hobby Lobby markers, and others. Regardless of ink bottle or marker, make sure it has an ALCOHOL-BASE. You can even create your own alcohol inks using Sharpies!
I would start with the tried and true brands and experiment to find your favorite color palettes and ink interactions.
For fun: Create your OWN alcohol ink
CREATING YOUR OWN ALCOHOL INK WITH A SHARPIE
To create your own alcohol ink, try this!
Get a dropper bottle and fill with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
Break open a Sharpie marker by using pliers to pry the top of the marker off (it will take a fair bit of working at it).
You'll find inside there is an ink sponge. Carefully take the sponge out and place it in the isopropyl alcohol. Leave it for at least 12 hours. The longer you leave the sponge in, the stronger the color will be. You can use tweezers or pliers to squeeze the sponge and get all that ink out.
Be very careful not to get on your hands or clothes!
Alcohol ink is PERMANENT and instant-staining.
It will not come out of clothing, carpets, or floors.
Note: make sure it is a permanent marker. Sharpie also makes oil-based and paint markers.
You want the regular old "Permanent Marker."
SELECTING THE RIGHT ALCOHOL:
Isopropyl Alcohol (No less % than 91%)
Why do we use alcohol?
So what exactly is its purpose? We are using it to extend and dilute the ink. This creates the lovely transparent effects. The more alcohol used, the more transparent and lighter color the ink will be. Use less alcohol, and the color will be very rich and saturated.
How does it work?
Alcohol ink is a dye-based pigment that is diluted with alcohol. The alcohol moves and carries the ink, and as the alcohol dries, it creates the interesting textures and patterns we see. We can speed up the drying process by applying heat techniques which creates different effects.
Different percentages of alcohol affect the ink. Do not get anything less than 91%.
The more water content in the isopropyl alcohol, the more gunky your ink will get.
You may need to visit a pharmacy to obtain, as I understand the high percentage bottles are under lock because they are often used for some sort of illicit drug formula (spoiler alert: its meth). If you are in Canada, I know we carry 99% at Costco, and both 97% and 99% behind the pharmacy counter at Walmart.
Read more about alcohol percentages
ALCOHOL? LIKE...VODKA?
No. Well, technically you can use Everclear (a very pure alcohol). But we won't be using that in this course.
It has many aliases. Rubbing alcohol, ispropyl alcohol, isopropanol, IPA.
DIFFERENT ALCOHOL PERCENTAGES
Basically, the lower the percentage of alcohol, the more water content is in the bottle. This also means that in lower concentrations, the alcohol evaporates faster than the water content, which can cause interesting but maybe unwanted effects.
99%
Best for use with heat
Fastest drying/rapid evaporation
Use if desiring strong lines and edges
Most toxic
Most flammable
97%
Middle ground
Don't use on HP photo paper - the water content absorbs into the photo paper
91%
You may find more "gunky" or textured results due to water content, especially if you live in a humid location
Best for gradients due to slower dry time
The alcohol content evaporates faster than the water content, leaving the water to interact with the inks
Don't use on photo paper - the water content absorbs into the photo paper
Least toxic - so better for use if you are using a blowing technique - but you will get water build up on your piece. See my "Tools Used" under Alcohol Ink Techniques module for more information.
Least flammable
Rubbing Alcohol
Don't use this. It is too low of a percentage of alcohol.
70%
Don't use this. It is too low of a percentage of alcohol.
SURFACES FOR ALCOHOL INK
A surface is the space upon which you are painting. Traditionally, watercolor is painted on watercolor paper, acrylic and oil is painted on canvas, etc. Alcohol ink, being a permanent medium, is interesting because it can be used on many different surfaces effectively.
As a general rule, alcohol ink can be painted on any non-porous surface. Of course, rules were made to be broken, and we all know artists love to break the rules, so we will discuss a couple porous surfaces as well!
Yupo Paper
Yupo is a smooth, waterproof, non-porous "paper." It feels like plastic. It is by far the most popular paper used for alcohol ink because the ink adheres perfectly, but also can be wiped away quite easily. It comes in both opaque and translucent, as well as medium and heavy weight.
Pros:
Amazing surface for 2D fine art
Wipes alcohol ink away fairly easily
Comes in sheet packages and rolls for a variety of possible sizes
Cons:
Does not hold up well against heat applications such as using a blow dryer for extended period of time
Heat guns will warp the medium weight paper
Can be quite expensive
Tips for this substrate: When you are using low-heat application process. If you plan to use any heat, indulge in the heavy weight yupo. Great for both experimentation and finished pieces as it can be wiped fairly clean. Some inks will stain depending on the ink brand. Always try a small piece before tackling a large project on it.If you are using a roll of yupo and you are having trouble flattening it, use a heat gun in long strokes over top to heat the plastic paper back to flat.
Where to buy: art stores, online stores
Photo Paper
Photo paper comes in both glossy and matte. My recommended brand is HP (Hewlett Packard) Premium Matte Photo Paper. You can buy it by the roll so it works great for large projects. I have also heard great reviews about the Kirkland photo paper, but I cannot speak to it myself.
Pros:
Matte version handles heat beautifully
No warping
The color stays vibrant and heat gun work is especially stunning
Heat cures the ink to the matte paper so you don't need to use nearly as many coats of Kamar to seal
Glossy paper holds its gloss with the ink and has a lovely finish
Great for if you like the look of resin but don't want to tackle it
Cons:
Glossy version does not hold up as well against heat as the coating melts
Very expensive, and can only buy by the roll
Tips for this substrate: You MUST use 99% alcohol, as any lower percentage and the water content becomes absorbed by the paper creating small dark dots where it has seeped through.
Where to buy: HP website, local print shops
Tiles
You know those wall tiles in your bathroom? That is exactly what I am talking about. Tiles are fabulous for any level of artist as they are solid, super glossy, can handle any level of heat, and can be wiped PERFECTLY CLEAN in the case of mistakes or starting over! Super great for a newbie so you don't have to waste money on papers.
Pros:
Wipes perfectly clean with alcohol
Can handle any heat level (including being lit on fire...!)
Super glossy
Cheap
Comes in different shapes and sizes
Cons:
Heavy
Difficult to hang on a wall or frame (but, it CAN be done!)
Tips for this substrate: Use this as a starting point if you are experimenting with new techniques!
Where to buy: hardware stores with a tiling section
Ceramics, Porcelain, Plastic
MUST HAVE GLOSSY FINISH
This is a catch-all category, because there are SO many products out there you can use! Go into any store and start looking for white glossy mugs, plates, figurines, vases, planters, salt and pepper shakers, anything to paint on!
Pros:
SO. MANY. OPPORTUNITIES. There are literally billions of things you could try.
Cons:
Don't get too excited about painting on plates and dishware. There are no known food-safe sealers that can be directly eaten off of with a fork and knife. Casual candy bowls and mugs are a different story, but we will get into that in an upcoming food safe article.
Plastics can melt with heat, so be careful when using heat techniques
Depending on the shape of your project, control of the ink may vary
Tips for this surface: Wear gloves. I mean, always wear gloves, but especially on 3D surfaces. It's easy to accidentally coat your hands when you are twirling around the object in question.
Where to buy: Walmart, the Dollar Store, home stores, thrift stores, anywhere that sells basically anything.
Duralar
DURALAR
Duralar by Grafix is a clear plastic sheet. You can create some really interesting effects, layering different sheets on top of each other to create multi-level art.
Pros:
perfectly smooth
Wipes clean with alcohol
Cons:
Warps under heat application
Easy to get fingerprints all over
Sometimes when working with multiple layers, you may find you just end up with brown because too many colors are layered
Tips for this surface: Use a piece of white foam core behind it to mount the duralar, and allow the colors to really pop! Can also be used in front of a light if interested in stained glass imitation.
Where to buy: art stores, online
Glass
Glass is a great non-porous surface to take advantage of alcohol ink's transparent effects. You can paint on sheets, or you can use to make candle holders and wine glasses! To make wine glasses, see my Alcohol Ink Mugs module.
Pros:
Sturdy
Wipes clean with alcohol
Can use high heat techniques
Cons:
Breaks easily
Sharp
Can be heavy
Tips for this surface: Don't like the transparent effect? Use a white acrylic paint or spray paint on the backside to give a white surface to work on. The glass Christmas ornament below is coated on the inside with white acrylic paint to really display the vibrancy of the ink. Do not use spray paint on wine glasses etc as that renders it not food safe. Also make sure that the white paint doesn't come in contact with the alcohol because the alcohol will cause the white to lift and roll into a chunky mess.
If you are painting on candle holders, paint on the outside. Do not worry about the flame from the candle igniting the ink; as long as the alcohol ink has dried, the alcohol will have evaporated and it will no longer be flammable.
Where to buy: You can usually buy sheets of glass at an art store, but a cheap idea is to buy picture frames from thrift stores and take the glass out. Wine glasses and candle holders can be found at dollar stores, home stores, etc.
Polypropylene / Duracopy
Poly is basically a no name Yupo paper. You can only use 99% alcohol on it, or it will get water dots on it from too high of water content in the alcohol.
Pros:
Great alternative to yupo paper
Cons:
Must use 99% alcohol
Is stainable and doesn't wipe clean
Can warp/melt with long-use heat techniques
Tips for this surface: You CAN use a heat gun with this material, but I'd highly advise keeping it short. There is also a right and wrong side of the paper to use. The smoother side (facing the outside of the roll) will be the one you want to paint on. The other side is extremely stainable, so make sure you don't lose track of which side you are starting on. If you can't remember, just dab a tiny spot of color on, and see if it wipes away with alcohol.
Where to buy: Sold under the name Duracopy or Polypropylene. You can find brands by HP, Right in the Rain, Sihl. You are likely to find it at a local print shop who specifically makes waterproof prints.
Canvas / Wood Panels
Canvas and wood panels are classic surfaces, but are porous so you will find they have some absorption properties.
If prepped corrected, you can reduce the porousness.
PRIMER OPTIONS
Kilz 2 LATEX
This is a latex primer usually used for waterproofing regular paint. You will see the best results with this primer. Apply three coats total, waiting to dry between each coat.
Acrylic gloss medium
I haven't used this myself, but I have seen some lovely results from others. It is the same application process as the Kilz 2 Latex primer. Apply three coats total, waiting to dry between each coat.
Resin
Seal the canvas with resin before starting, and you give yourself a nice glossy surface to work with. Alternatively, you can add the alcohol ink into the resin and tint your resin. Resin is worthy of its own entire article, which you can find here.
Of course, you don't have to use a primer if you are okay with it absorbing the ink! It will be a very different look than typical alcohol ink pieces on non-porous surfaces.
Pros:
No need to frame
Canvas may feel more familiar for you
Ability to experiment with levels of porousness
Cons:
Must seal the canvas if wanting traditional alcohol ink appearance
Porous material causes ink to act much differently than on non-porous surfaces
Tips for this surface: You are going to end up using a LOT of isopropyl alcohol. Make sure to be outside if working on a large project.
Where to buy: art stores, walmart, dollar stores for cheap (but also low quality) canvas
Metal
I haven't personally worked on metal, but I have seen lots of examples of it and didn't want to leave it out for the experimental artists who want to try everything. Metal is generally used for jewelry. Some people like to buy washers and various metal bits and scraps to create their own custom jewelry.
Pros:
Metal is durable and heat resistant, so no problems using any sorts of heat techniques
Cons:
I find it dulls the color, but some love the effect
Tips for this surface: mix the alcohol ink with Snowcap by Tim Holtz (their white alcohol ink) to brighten the colors
Where to buy: hardware stores
Experiment!
Don't forget to experiment! As a crafter, every store I go into now, I wonder, what can I ink??
Always keep trying new things and you may just find something that you love.
Comment below if you would like to add your own surfaces you have worked with, experimented on, etc.
What worked? What didn't work?
If you liked the results but can't seem to get it right where you want it, message me and we can discuss how to make it work.
Additional Materials:
Drinking Straw: to blow ink around
Vapor Mask: this will keep fumes out of your lungs. Alcohol ink is toxic and should you decide to skip the mask, you will be working at your own risk. There will be a lesson regarding safety in the next slide.
Latex Gloves: again, alcohol ink is toxic and can be absorbed through the skin. Not to mention, the ink is permanent. It will be on you for weeks if you spill.
Paper Towels
Puppy Pads: this will be a lifesaver for your work space. They are super absorbant so you don't have to spend fortunes on endless paper towel.
Krylon Kamar Varnish: the base for sealing any alcohol ink projects. This Kamar is NOT food safe and is not to be the final finish on any surfaces involving food, skin, or mouth contact. I will talk about sealers in my Alcohol Ink Mugs course. If you purchased the master class, we will go over this later. For now, we will stick with the basics. Here is the varnish. Find the Krylon site on Google for your country to find out where you can purchase.
Krylon UV Protectant Spray: to slow the color degradation due to UV exposure. Here is the spray.
Optional Materials:
Blow Dryer: try to find one that has a very low setting. I honestly just use the cheapest one at Walmart.
Heat Gun: these have the same force as a blow dryer, but very high heat, usually used for heat sealing and embossing. I use this brand.
Airbrush Compressor: a great low heat tool. This is the one I purchased from Amazon.
Paint Brushes: synthetic only. Alcohol ink will destroy natural hair bristles. Make sure you don't plan on using them for other mediums.
Water Brush: I load alcohol in these to work details and touch ups. These are the ones I have.
Small bottles: for premixing large quantities of ink.
Palette: for mixing smaller quantities, or testing colors.
Nail Polish Divider Tray: for keeping inks organized. Here is an example.
Tim Holtz Blending Solution or Jacquard Claro Solution: an alternative to isopropyl alcohol to create more blended gradients.
ALCOHOL INK SAFETY
Alcohol ink is flammable, poisonous, and toxic to breathe (MSDS on Tim Holtz alcohol ink).
Isopropyl alcohol can absorb through your skin, it is extremely flammable, and the fumes can be detrimental if precautions are not taken (MSDS on isopropyl alcohol).
Additionally, whatever sealer you are using is probably toxic as well. Check the label of your preferred sealer to read safety precautions.
It is imperative that you protect yourself and those around you while working with alcohol ink.
Do not use when in the same room as pets, children, or during pregnancy!
REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Vapor Mask/Respirator
At the absolute minimum, you want to make sure you are using a respirator. It needs to be rated for VAPORS as we are working with toxic fumes. Those disposable masks will not cut it. The mask on the left is the one I use (see 3M website). It has disposable cartridges that need to be replaced at least every 6 months.
Latex or Rubber Gloves
Both alcohol ink and isopropyl alcohol can be absorbed through the skin. Due to the often messy application processes of alcohol ink, I highly advise wearing gloves to protect your skin. Not to mention, the ink is permanently staining. I've made the mistake of working with red ink without gloves...got a few interesting looks walking around with what appears to be blood stained hands for a week...
If you have tiny hands like me and have trouble finding small gloves, Costco carries them!
Ventilated Room (open windows, fans, HEPA air purifier)
If the option to work outdoors is not available, you will need to ventilate the room you are in. You can do this by opening windows and directing fans to blow the fumes out.
Additionally, if you plan on working large scale or very frequently, buy an air purifier. The air purifier in question must be a HEPA purifier with a CARBON FILTER. the HEPA filter will filter out particles such as dust, but the carbon filter is essential for the chemical fumes. The air purifier you use will be dependent on room size.
This is the beast I have. I literally spilled half a bottle of 99% alcohol by accident and my husband could barely tell because I had it running on Turbo when it happened.
Optional equipment
Apron
Floor mat/tarp
Paper towel
Spray tent
TIPS FOR KEEPING YOURSELF UNHARMED
Work on larger pieces in short stints.
Use any spray sealers exclusively outside.
Immediately take any saturated paper towel, rags etc outside to the garbage to prevent fumes from sticking around.
FOOD SAFETY: USING ALCOHOL INK ON DISHWARE ETC
Do not use any of these techniques on surfaces that you intend to eat off of with utensils.
Any dishware, bowls, etc need to be made with the intention of being purely ornamental. Any hand painted items are always hand wash only.
This is addressed further in Learn: Sealing Alcohol Ink Mugs
If you are feeling lightheaded, nauseous, your vision is blurring, or you are developing a headache, it's time to take a break!
Comments